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Roofing 101

asphalt shingles

Why Are My Shingles Losing Their Coating?

If you read my last post, you should understand why it is so important to keep the granular coating out of your gutters. However, it can be difficult to do if your shingles are losing a significant amount of their coating prematurely. If you’ve noticed an unusual amount of granules or debris being washed out of your gutters after a storm, granules scattered about your home, or accumulations in your gutters you may be wondering what the cause could be. There are several things to consider that may be contributing to the problem you are experiencing.

The ceramic granular coating on an asphalt shingle does not just give an aesthetic value to the roof of your home. The coating provides protection to the organic layers of your shingle from the UV rays of the sun. If the ceramic coating were not present, not only would the shingle not have a nice texture and color, but it would degrade rapidly, become brittle and fracture. This is important to prevent because it is the asphalt layer that provides the waterproofing ability of the roof. If your shingles are losing their coating, it can cause a significantly decreased lifespan and necessity for premature replacement of your roof.

The granular coating is embedded into the asphalt of the shingle during the manufacturing process. In most cases it holds tightly in place for many years, however if a problem occurs during the manufacturing of the shingle, it can lead to a weaker bond between the asphalt and the granules. Lesser quality shingles can also lose their coating faster than others. It is important to identify the shingle type, manufacturer, and date of production of your shingles, and to keep track of that information in case of a future claim against the manufacturer for defects.

The quality of the shingle and the manufacturing process are not the only factors effecting the ability of the asphalt to bind to the granules. Physical damage can occur to the shingle by mishandling, carelessness, extreme temperatures or weather-related events. Hailstorms are a common cause of premature degranulation. Sometimes, the damage caused by hail is not evident from the ground until several years after the storm. The hail often will loosen the granules, but it takes time for them to separate and wash away after the storm.

One of the most common causes of granular loss is something much less understood by builders and many roofing professionals. Improper attic ventilation and insulation can create a significant effect on the lifespan of the roof. If cool air in the attic space cannot circulate from the eaves of the home through the ridge, box or gable vents in the upper portion of the roof, the shingles and roof deck will overheat.

The extreme temperatures on the roof in the hot summer sun causes rapid deterioration of the shingle by loosening the granules from the asphalt. It is important to properly install even ventilation and keep insulation from blocking the vents, or to climate control your attic space to ensure overheating of the singles does not occur.

Sometimes it takes a trained professional to accurately assess the cause of premature granular loss. If your shingles are losing their granular coating at an excessive rate, you may want to contact a professional roofing company like Roof It Right, LLC in Louisville, KY to help you assess the cause. Sometimes it can take a trained eye and experience to identify the likely culprit. We are happy to assist you with a free assessment of your roof’s current condition and maintenance needs.

gutters

Granules, Gutters, and Gravity

Granules, Gutters, and Gravity

Gravity is a force that works on everything with mass. It is a force that multiplies by the mass of the objects it is acting on. Here on Earth the most mass exists within the Earth itself, and therefore Earth’s gravity exerts a significant force upon all other objects of mass upon it. What does that have to do with your gutters? Simple, your gutters have mass, and therefore cannot escape the force of gravity acting upon them by the Earth.

Your gutters are an extremely important component of your home. They catch and divert water away from susceptible areas of the home to prevent deterioration. Gutters must be attached to the eaves of your home by fasteners to catch water being shed from your roof and to prevent gravity from pulling them to the ground. These fasteners are designed to overcome the force of gravity acting upon the gutters to keep them secured in place. Some fastener types for gutters are better than others, but they all have limits to the amount of force they can withstand.

As more mass is added to the gutters by water during rainstorms, the force the fasteners must withstand increases. If the fasteners have been placed incorrectly, if there is not enough of them, or if the material they are fastened to deteriorates, their holding power may not be enough to withstand the force of gravity acting on gutters and the material in them. When the force of gravity exceeds the strength of the fasteners holding them in place, the fasteners fail, and down come your gutters.

Water isn’t the only matter that can add mass to your gutters. Asphalt shingles are coated with a ceramic granule to protect the organic underlayment from degradation by UV rays. The ceramic granules are heavy and can absorb or reflect most of the sun’s energy and keep it from breaking down the water proofing component of the shingle. As shingles age, or are poor in quality, damaged, or overheated due to improper roof ventilation, the granules become loose and wash away during rainstorms. As the granules enter the gutters, they deposit there and build up over time. This can add a lot of extra mass to your gutters. More mass means a stronger force of gravity acting upon them.

The gutter fasteners are only capable of withstanding a limited amount of gravitational pull. As they age, the material they are fastened to ages, or as they are exposed to prolonged stress, the force they can withstand lessens. The more mass that sits in your gutters for prolonged periods of time, the more likely the fasteners are to fail.

What does this mean for you? As a homeowner that wants to protect their investment and keep from having unnecessary expenses, you should have your roof evaluated and gutters cleaned regularly. A qualified professional will be able to keep track of the condition of your shingles, analyze your roof’s ventilation and attic insulation for potential problems, and keep your gutters clean of debris and additional mass that should not be there.

If your home is properly inspected and maintained, your roof and gutters will protect your home for a long period of time if not exposed to a storm or accidental damage. You can expect 30 to 35 years or more out of a quality asphalt shingle roof and gutter system that is properly installed and maintained.

If you’re asking what is the cost of the maintenance to do that?… Roof It Right, LLC, a trusted Louisville roofing professional would be happy to provide you with a free estimate!

Ice Dams

What are Ice Dams?

Think about it. An asphalt shingle roof is designed to last on average 25-30 years. During this period of time residents in the Greater Louisville area should expect to see 3-4 events that could lead to significant ice dams. It only takes one to cause major damage to your home.

How Much Does It Cost?

Most houses can have Ice and Water Shield installed for less than $1000 in additional cost to their roof replacement. Most insurance deductibles are $1000 or more. It’s up to you to determine if you should take the precaution of paying for protection in the event of a severe ice or snow storm, but one way or another, when it comes, you’re going to pay for it.

What is an Ice Dam Exactly?

Ice dams occur infrequently in the Greater Louisville area, but when they do occur with severe winter weather, it can be disastrous. As the snow and ice fall on the roofs of buildings and begin to melt, it travels down the roofs of structures to gutters or drains and can refreeze over the unheated/uninsulated portions of the roof. This causes a buildup of snow and ice, usually along the eaves.

Buildup causes a “damming” effect and meltwater can back up and cause water leakage into the roof and consequent damage to the structure. Ice dams frequently occur in roof valleys that are shaded, and over the eaves of homes because they are colder areas of the roof.

Parts of the country that receive greater amounts of annual ice and snowfall typically have roofs that are specially designed for the prevention of ice dams or special protection to prevent the intrusion of water into moisture-prone components of the roof. Ice and Water Shield is a material used specifically for protecting the home from this problem.

What are the Chances That Ice and Water Shield Will Make a Difference for my Home?

Think about it. An asphalt shingle roof is designed to last on average 25-30 years. During this period of time residents in the Greater Louisville area should expect to see 3-4 events that could lead to significant ice dams. It only takes one to cause major damage to your home.

Why Ice and Water Shield is Often Not Installed

The reason/s why not can vary, but the result is the same . . . a leaking roof during heavy snow and ice accumulations. The roof wasn’t “shielded” by a product that is designed to keep that from happening when faced with costly, albeit infrequent, weather events. So there’s a product designed to prevent water damage during ice and heavy snow events? Yes. If that’s the case, why didn’t the roofers install it? You’re probably going to be really shocked by my answer. Prepare yourself. They didn’t install it because . . . it’s not . . . free! What!?

What Insurance Companies Won’t Tell You

Surely, if a homeowner were told that they needed this product to protect their investment they would make the wise decision to pay the extra money needed to cover its cost during a roof replacement. Let me explain why they often don’t with an illustration. Let’s compare your roof to your car.

In 2018, a study performed by Cooper Tires showed that 68% of the car owners surveyed had at least one thing wrong with their vehicle that they were waiting to fix. Why do car owners procrastinate repairs to one of the most important things they own? Because they don’t know how to fix it themselves, and only 19% of the car owners felt that they were getting a fair shake when taking their car to a mechanic.

In short, fear of what they don’t know and not knowing who to trust. It is this same “not knowing” that might leave a homeowner cold and wet during a weather event because he didn’t get Ice and Water Shield installed on his roof.

How apt do you think people are to pay for the extra expense of Ice and Water Shield to protect their roof when they . . .

  1. Know nothing about it
  2. Don’t experience the problem with it regularly
  3. Are told by their insurance carrier that it’s unnecessary?

Because insurance carriers have insisted that Ice and Water Shield is unnecessary for the Greater Louisville area and will not pay for it on roofs that don’t already have it, current roofers have gotten used to not installing it.

Perhaps most of the time it’s just fine not to. However, every once in a while, the damn ice comes, sorry, I meant ice dam, and it is absolutely necessary for protecting many homes. In short, it’s not worth the risk to leave it out.

House with new black roof

Roofing FAQs

FAQ: How long will it take to replace my roof?

The roof on most homes can be replaced from start to finish in 1 or 2 days. If your roof is exceptionally large or steep, it may take up to 3 days, weather permitting.

FAQ: Can you install a roof during the winter months?

Yes. As long as it is over 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Actually, there are some advantages to roofing in the winter. Asphalt shingles can be scuffed by workers walking on the roof when it’s warm. The colder temperatures prevent asphalt from being too soft and thus subject to that type of damage. However, be beware that the sealant on the shingles may not completely seal until the spring or summer. As a result, the shingles may not lay flat and will appear wavy, but will look fine in a couple of months. If you use Owens Corning shingles with Sure Nail technology, you will be in especially good shape. The engineered fabric strip in the nailing area will help prevent shingles from blowing off before they completely seal.

FAQ: Do I need to get multiple estimates?

No. You can, but it usually isn’t necessary.

If you are filing a roof insurance claim, it is not required to get multiple estimates. According to your homeowners policy, you can chose any contractor you want to perform work on your home, regardless of price. Insurance companies may prefer several estimates because they want to bid the work down. Ultimately, you are only responsible for the deductible. So choose your contractor based on quality workmanship and reputation. Your insurance company is required by law to pay the contractor of your choosing.

FAQ: Do I have to pay my deductible?

Yes.

It is required by law that the deductible must be paid before your insurance coverage is applicable. Not paying your deductible is considered insurance fraud.

FAQ: How does a deductible work?

If your deductible is $1000, you must pay your designated contractor $1000, or whatever the amount of your deductible is, before work begins. Your insurance company is responsible for any costs over the $1000.

Once the work is complete, your contractor will submit a bill to your insurance company for the remaining balance. Your insurance company will then send a check for the remaining amount to you and you will pay the contractor directly. To spend the money on anything other than approved repairs is insurance fraud.

FAQ: Can my contractor be present when my insurance company does their inspection?

Yes.

Most insurance adjusters prefer for the roofing contractor to be present during a roof inspection. This is to help the insurance adjuster properly identify the damages. Most insurance adjusters are not roofers and they appreciate the expertise that a roofing contractor provides.

FAQ: How long is this (getting an approved insurance claim) going to take?

Anywhere from a few weeks to several months.

It all depends on your insurance carrier and the relationship that you have with them. It also largely depends on how quickly you as the homeowner follow thorough in communicating both with the insurance company and your contractor. Your involvement is necessary in order for it to process successfully in a timely manner. But don’t worry, Roof It Right will give you all the documentation and tools that you need to successfully get a claim approved as soon as possible.

FAQ: What if the insurance company doesn’t pay the full amount?

They will, if you are patient and allow us to guide you.

Unless there is wording in your policy that they will not cover something specific, they have to cover all expenses that restore your roof to its pre-storm condition. As roofers who do it right, we are able to prove that certain expenses are necessary in order to accomplish that. The insurance company may initially deny certain items, but that is all part of the give-and-take negotiation process. We will coach you on how to handle any denials. Remember, you are only responsible for the deductible if you do not give up! The insurance company should pay, and we will help you get that accomplished. In rare cases, we may ask you to go to appraisal or request an appraisal from the insurance company.

FAQ: Will my insurance company raise my rates or drop me?

Not usually.

It used to be that no, an insurance company could not raise your rates or drop your coverage for filing a storm damage claim. After all, a storm is an Act of God and not your fault. You pay premiums for just such events. Homeowners insurance rates should be based on geographical data. For example, if an area is known to be prone to hurricanes, the rates will be higher for everyone in that area.

However, that is not always the case anymore. For that reason, we do not recommend that you file a claim, unless you have legitimate storm damage verified by a professional roofer. Even so, we cannot categorically promise you that your insurance company will not drop you or raise your rates. Some have been known to do so more frequently in recent years. However, it is not ethical. Depending on the circumstances, you may be able fight it.

For example, if you are dropped after a denial, it may be that the insurance company knows that they should have paid the claim and you are a liability. The American Policyholder Association is a non profit organization that promotes integrity in the insurance industry. If that happens to you, they may be able to help you.

roofing-basics

Roofing Basics

Know and Understand Your Roof

It’s important to us at Roof It Right, that you know and understand exactly what you are getting when you get a roof repair or replacement. We are the #EducationRoofer! If you have any roofing-related questions, reach out to us and let us know how we can help!

Basic Roofing Terminology:

roofing-basics

Skylight

A window installed in a roof or ceiling. Flashing, thin sheets of water-resistant material, is installed around the skylight to divert water away from the opening.

Ridge

The horizontal line where two roof slopes meet at the top. It is sometimes referred to as the peak. Hip and ridge shingles are specifically designed for this part of a roof.

Valley

The V-shaped intersection between two roof slopes.

Chimney Flashing

Thin sheets of water-resistant material that diverts water away from the chimney and onto the shingles. Chimneys generally require base flashing and a counter flashing. See below for more information on flashing.

Gable

The usually triangle-shaped section of a wall formed when two roof slopes intersect at the top.

Rake

The edges of the roof slopes that form a gable.

Gable end

The entire wall that includes a gable.

Fascia

The long straight boards that run along the front of the overhang. Fascia boards support the gutters.

Eave

The lower horizontal edge of the roof that usually overhangs the exterior wall.

Sidewall

A wall on the side of a structure.

Slope

Another name for a roof plane.

It is also the term used to describe how steep the incline is. It is expressed by the number of inches of up per 12 inches across. A roof slope can be anywhere from 2/12 to 10/12. The higher the first number of the ratio, the steeper it is.

Soffit

The finishing material that covers the underside of your roof’s overhang.

Abutment

A junction of pitched roof surface with a wall or similar structural feature. Commonly seen in roof and building extensions.

Dormer

A projection, generally with a window, that extends out from sloped roof.

Downspout

The vertical gutter/pipe that allows water from a gutter to reach the ground without dripping or splashing your home.

Flashing

Material, usually thin sheets of metal, that divert water from roof components. They are installed at wall intersections and around roof projections and features, such as vents, skylights, and chimneys.

Frieze board

A board at the top of the house’s finished wall, forming a corner with the soffit.

Flat roof

A roof with a very low incline, that may appear flat.

Rain gutter

The trough along the roof’s edges that catches water from the roof and diverts it away from the building.

Hipped Edge

The roof slope created by two hips.

Hip

The intersection of the sides of two roof slopes, forming a ridge from the peak to the eave. A hip is the opposite of a valley, which angles inward. Hip and ridge shingles are specifically designed for this part of a roof.

Drip Edge

Metal flashing that extends past the edges of the roof to keep water from curling back around the shingles. If your roof doesn’t have drip edge, water gets behind your gutters and rots out both your fascia board and roof decking.

Plumbing Vent

A pipe connected to your plumbing system that helps regulate air pressure and removes gas and odors.

Ventilation Vents or Fans:

Exhaust vents allow warm humid air to exit and properly ventilate your attic.

Anatomy of a Roofing System:

A roof is much more than shingles, it’s an entire system. Take a moment to understand all the components that go into your roofing system with this diagram. You’ll be able to confidently discuss your roofing needs with your contractor and/or insurance company.

*For illustrative purposes only. Deck air vents are not typically used in conjunction with soffit intake vents.
*For illustrative purposes only. Deck air vents are not typically used in conjunction with soffit intake vents.

Hip and ridge shingles: Specialized shingles that are designed to easily bend over a ridge or hip.

Ridge Vent: An exhaust vent that runs horizontally along the peak of the roof allowing warm, humid air to escape from the attic.

Laminate shingles: Also known as laminated architectural, architectural, or dimensional shingles. They are a type of asphalt shingle with a heavier base mate and multiple layers with a 3-dimensional appearance. In contrast, regular asphalt shingles, also known as “3-tab” shingles, are flat, with only one shingle tab shape and size.

shingle types

Frame: Wooden structure that the roof deck or sheathing is attached to.

Roof Deck: The sheathing material that is nailed to the frame and to which shingles and other roofing materials are attached.

Synthetic Underlayment: Also known as felt, a water-shedding barrier that goes between the roof deck and the shingles.

Starter Shingles: Specialized shingles that are designed for use along the eave and rake edges. They protect against wind and water infiltration.

Deck air vent: If your home doesn’t have soffit intake vent or adequate ventilation, deck air vents can be installed at the bottom of your roof as an alternative.

Self-adhered ice and water barrier: A waterproof second-line of defense against moisture in vulnerable areas. We recommend ice and water barrier installation along the eaves and in valleys to prevent damage from ice dams.

Soffit intake vents: Intake vents located under the eaves of the roof that draw cool dry air into the attic.

Attic Insulation: Proper insulation in your attic reduces heat transfer and helps prevent ice dams. Excessive heat transfer and ice dams can both damage your shingles.

Baffels: (Rafter vents) Chutes that provide a way for air to flow from the exterior soffit vents up to your attic. They are important protectors against condensation, water damage, and mold.

Drip edge (not shown): Metal flashing that helps water drip off your roof and away from your house.

Flashing (not shown): thin sheets of water-resistant material that are installed in vulnerable areas of the roof.

Types of Flashing

The purpose of flashing is to divert water from vulnerable areas. Examples of areas that require flashing are roof intersections with walls, around openings in the roof and around features, such as vents, skylights, and chimneys. Galvanized steel is most commonly used, but it can be made out of many types of metal or other material. There are a variety of flashing types that your roof will require. Some are mentioned below.

Continuous flashing

A long, single piece of metal that diverts water down to the shingles below. Also called apron flashing, it is generally installed ….. Long pieces have built-in expansion joints so they can better withstand natural contraction and expansion.

Base flashing

Chimneys and other features may require two pieces of flashing. The base flashing (or apron flashing) is the bottom L-shaped piece. One end goes under the shingles and the other end of the “L” flushes against the chimney or wall. Counter flashing is the second piece that is attached to the chimney and acts like a “cap”over the base flashing.

Counter flashing

Counter flashing is used to “cap” the top of base flashing. In fact, counter flashing is also called cap flashing. It is then secured directly into the masonry or with a sealant or both.

Step Flashing

Step flashing is a rectangular piece of flashing bent at 90 degrees in the center. It is used for roof to wall flashing. Multiple pieces of the flashing are installed in layers with shingles to ensure the water flows away from the wall.

Skylight flashing

It is important to use the correct flashing around your skylights. Most sunlight manufacturers include skylight flashing with their products. It is also common for roofers to fabricate their own flashing.

Metal Drip Edge

All the edges of your roof– the eaves and rakes– should have metal drip edge installed to keep water from curling around the shingles and back into your house.

Pipe Jack

A pipe jack, also called a pipe boot, is a type of pre-fabricated flashing designed to go around plumbing vents.

Valley flashing

A valley can be “open”, meaning that metal flashing is installed in the valley. Or it can be “closed” and shingled. If the valley is closed and covered with asphalt shingles, it should absolutely have ice and water barrier installed underneath before shingling.

Kickout flashing

Kickout flashing bridges the gap between step flashing and the gutter. It directs water away from the wall and into the gutter.

Our friends at Roofing Insights explain some roofing terms in this video.

Hardwood with photos of the seasons changing

Be Prepared for Seasonal Changes!

Are You Prepared for Seasonal Changes?

We hope everyone is off to a great new year! Despite it being winter, things are staying relatively steady here at Roof It Right, LLC. After the Fall weather change, rain, and leaves dropping, we have been getting quite a few calls for leaks…so, I thought I would write about what you can do to avoid having to make the same call.

Being proactive by calling a professional roofing company to inspect your roof, rather than reactive after a leak has occurred, can save you lots of money. Let me explain why you should call during this time of year, and why you should call a roofing company to clean your gutters…

One of the major causes for leaks are seasonal weather changes that occur from Fall to Winter. Changes in temperature cause the expansion and contraction of your roofing system and structural components of your roof.

As the temperature changes to a much cooler one in winter, the thermal contraction of those parts of your home can create issues where you had none before. A professional roofing inspector is trained to discover those issues before they become a much bigger problem, and they are often ready to deal with those repairs on the spot.

Here at Roof It Right, LLC we recommend that you call in late fall to have a qualified roofing company evaluate your roof for potential cracks, unsealed shingles, nails that have worked loose, and to clean your gutters of debris that could clog downspouts, or create areas for snow and ice build-up.

If you stay ahead of these problems, there is a good chance you will prevent much more extensive damage to your home. Also, keep in mind that during winter and spring it is often difficult to make larger roofing repairs due to unsafe weather conditions, and if you wait until there is already a considerable leak, it may still take some time before a repair can safely be made.

Keeping your gutters cleaned can prevent fungal, moss and algal growth on your roof, which can be unsightly, and potentially detrimental to the lifespan of your roof. Many roofing companies are prepared to offer seasonal specials to help you avoid these problems by cleaning your gutters, but they also offer much greater value than non-roofing gutter cleaners because they can inspect and repair damage to your roofing system while they are there.

Additionally, it may be wise to consider that insurance for things like gutter cleaning and roof inspections is expensive due to fall hazards being the leading cause of workplace fatalities. Companies that are not on ladders or roofs everyday may not have the adequate safety equipment, training, and insurance to protect against those hazards, and that could be disastrous!

If you would like to know more about our fall cleaning and inspection specials, please call us, and we’d be happy to discuss!

Roof Decking is Critical to Performance!

It’s What’s Under the Shingles that Count!

We often encounter problems to roof decking during replacement. Especially, in older homes. Althoughwe try to prepare customers for the cost up front, it can still be a shock when the necessaryreplacements are tallied. We do our best to estimate deck replacement before every job, butsometimes it is just not possible. If you are facing costly roof deck replacement, think about the costsyou will face if you do not proceed with the necessary repairs…Roof decking is the support for the waterproof covering of your roofing system. For residential roofs it istypically constructed using plywood or OSB in newer construction, and plank sheathing or tongue andgroove material in older homes. Each material has its’ own advantages and disadvantages, but what isimportant is that no matter what material is used, it must be solid and capable of supporting the roofcovering, reasonable live, wind and snow loads, between rafters/trusses. Since this material is notwaterproof and can be compromised by storm damage, and/or failure of the cover material, it isimportant to assess and replace damaged or out of compliance decking when replacing the roofingsystem.Manufacturers of roofing systems and building compliance authorities have specific requirements forroof decks to ensure safety and performance of the roof. There are two things you should do whenbuilding or replacing a roof.First, you should check with your local Planning and Zoning authority or a state compliance office forguidance on decking requirements. Typically, requirements are set to protect individuals working onyour roof, and occupants inside of the home, from construction activities and weather that is commonfor the area. Parts of the country that receive lots of snow for instance will have greater supportrequirements for roof structures and coverings than areas that do not. However, snow load is not theonly factor to consider in framing and decking requirements. If using a heavier material, such as claytiles in South Florida for example, the roof structure and decking will need greater support than anasphalt shingle roof.Second, you should make sure that the roof deck material meets the requirements of the manufacturerof the roofing system you will be using. For reference, Owens Corning® requires the following:• Solidly-sheathed roof decks: – Minimum 3/8-inch plywood sheathing, rated by TheEngineered Wood Association (APA).1 – Minimum 7/16-inch Oriented Strand Board (OSB),rated by The Engineered Wood Association (APA).1 – Installed with minimum 1/8-inch andmaximum 1/4-inch spacing at all panel edges and end joints. Sheathing thickness andinstallation must follow the sheathing manufacturer’s and local building code requirements.• Decks constructed with spaced deck boards: – Minimum 6 inch wide – Minimum 3/4-inchthick – Installed with maximum 1/4-inch spacing between boards – Holes or gaps greaterthan 1/4-inch must be repaired or boards replaced. All roof deck surfaces, regardless of type, should be clean, dry, and free of debris,protrusions, dust and oil prior to the installation of underlayment or asphalt shingles. Owens

Corning® asphalt shingles should never be installed directly over insulation board of anytype.

If you fail to follow these recommendations by the manufacturer, you may be voiding coverage underthe warranty of the manufacturer, or insurance coverage for a loss in the future.When replacing roofing systems contractors should evaluate and provide you with evidence of the needfor decking replacement. Whenever we perform a tear-off we properly clean the deck surface, takepictures of areas where boards/sheathing has been water damaged, spacing between boards is notcompliant, boards are broken, have holes, or are deformed, and we show those to the customer sothere is no confusion about the need for replacement. It is common for roof decks on older homes toneed partial to full replacement due to one of more of these issues, but even newer homes can requirethe same, due to poor workmanship and damage caused by previous contractors.Make sure to protect yourself by hiring a contractor that knows, explains, and does these all of thesethings!

That is what we do at Roof It Right, LLC. We invest into our people to make sure we do the job RIGHT! I’m James Hannon, the assistant general manager, and I would like to say thank you for checking out our BLOG at Roof It Right, LLC. We are a Louisville, Ky based company that specializes in exterior home products, insurance claim services, and most importantly educating our community about what we do!
James Hannon
Assistant General
ManagerRoof It Right!

Attic with Spray foam insulation

The Do’s and Don’ts of Spray Foam Insulation

Spray Foam Do’s and Don’ts

More than once we have encountered mold and rot issues with spray foam insulation. The ability of foam insulation to control drafts and lower the energy costs of heating and cooling your home far exceed that of traditional insulation. However, the same ability of spray foam to seal out drafts can also seal in moisture. Careful practice and consideration must be applied during construction and installation to prevent these issues.

There are two different types of spray insulation, open and closed cell. Open cell has a lower R-value than closed cell, allows moisture to be absorbed and pass through it, and is cheaper. Closed cell provides a greater thermal resistance and vapor resistance and seals out moisture. Both can be effective, with minimal issues, depending upon how and in what application they are applied.

Let’s consider the different components of your home and how they are constructed, to better understand the issues that can occur.

One of the common places we see problems with spray foam insulation is the roof. Your roof is constructed with rafters or trusses that are covered by a layer of plywood, commonly called the roof deck. The plywood serves as a base for the waterproofing membrane and most often an asphalt shingle covering. When spray foam is applied to the attic side of the framing and wood decking, it can seal moisture from the roof surface from entering the attic space in the case of closed cell, or it can slow the transfer of moisture into the attic space and accumulate in the porous wood and insulation materials, or condense in cooler areas of the home in the case of open cell. When the roof decking is installed it is important to keep it dry.

If closed cell insulation, the exterior waterproofing membrane and shingles, are installed to a damp roof deck, the moisture can be trapped in the permeable wood decking and framing and cause major problems. If open cell is installed, the moisture can migrate to areas of lower humidity, but will be trapped in the attic space if it is unventilated or not climate controlled. Both scenarios can be troublesome.

Another problem that can occur in closed cell insulation is solar vapor drive. When the sun heats up the roof surface, moisture that exists under the shingles can vaporize and be driven through the waterproofing membrane into the roof deck. If closed cell insulation seals the underside of the roof deck, the moisture becomes trapped into the wood and can cause deterioration of the decking and framing over time.

In cases of open cell insulation, this moisture can make its’ way to the attic space. This can cause high humidity and condensation in areas of the home that should remain dry. If the attic space is not ventilated, the humidity transfer with open cell insulation from solar vapor drive can be very high.

The question becomes, if you are trying to insulate your house from outside temperatures, why would you ventilate on the back side of the insulated barrier? You wouldn’t. If you did this, the insulation would serve no purpose. For this reason, closed cell insulation should be the insulation of choice for attic spaces that are not climate or humidity controlled. However, that doesn’t mean there is no possibility of a problem.

If you aren’t circulating the air inside the attic space there can be problems with either option. Temperature and humidity differentials can still occur from the inside of the home with closed cell insulation. If the moisture cannot get out through the insulation from the inside of the home, and builds up in the attic space, mold can become an issue.

A knowledgeable professional will be able to explain and install a system for moisture and climate protection that ensures that these problems do not arise. If you encounter a contractor that is quick to dismiss the concerns with spray foam insulation, you should be skeptical that he/she will carefully evaluate and design these systems to minimize the possibility for problems in the future. Improperly designed and installed systems can lead to catastrophic damage and financial burden upon you and your family.

old deck with rotted wood

Prepare the Deck or Prepare for Your Roof to Fail!

Choose a Contractor that Knows the Importance of Deck Preparation!

In our previous post we discussed why roof decking is important, not just to the longevity of your roof, but also in protecting your investment in your home. Manufacturers of roofing systems and insurance companies are not going to pay for failures of a roofing system or damage to your home caused in part by an improperly installed or out-of-compliance roof.

Costs for replacing decking can be unexpected and an expensive addition to the cost of your roof replacement. You should find a contractor that does their best to make sure that these costs are properly estimated and explained before the job begins, but don’t be surprised if, after tear-off, more damage is discovered.

Although replacing decking that does not meet installation or building code requirements is essential for a properly installed roof, mere replacement is not the only action your roofing contractor should be doing to ensure performance and longevity of your roofing system.

Owens Corning® recommends that, “All roof deck surfaces, regardless of type, should be clean, dry, and free of debris, protrusions, dust and oil prior to the installation of underlayment or asphalt shingles.”

Many roofing contractors may take the time to replace damage to decking because it is an additional charge to the homeowner that is reasonable when discovered. However, they will not take the time to properly clean and prepare the existing deck surface because a homeowner, expecting it to be included in the upfront cost, they may not notice if it is not done.

Unscrupulous contractors will take advantage of skipping these steps to save them time, to make the roof more affordable for the homeowner, and therefore more attainable for the contractor. However, affordability for the homeowner in the short run can lead to major expenses for them in the future, and the contractor will be long gone before those shortcomings are discovered.

We see many roofs with shingles installed over protruding nails and debris that were left from the previous roof, and should have been removed or driven into the deck, prior to the new system being installed. Over time these protrusions and debris work their way through the new underlayment and shingle to create a hole in the new roof surface.

If dust, oil, or granules are left on the roof deck prior to installation of the new underlayment, slippage can occur while installing new shingles. This can result in damage to the underlayment, or wrinkles in the felt and subsequently causing the shingles above to not sit completely flat on the roof surface. Over time these small imperfections can cause major problems for your roof.

You should ask your contractor upfront if a supervisor will be on the job to make sure these steps are taken during your roof replacement. The additional expense of a contractor who has an experienced supervisor to ensure quality and professionalism is well worth the money when it comes to protecting your home’s first line of defense from weather.